April 26, 2016

On April 13, 2016 Italian wine, as a whole, dedicated the most important tasting of Vinitaly’s 50^th edition in Verona to the recently deceased Giacomo Tachis (read my article on this subject on gourmettino.com, February 17, 2016).  Tachis has been the first Italian oenologist to be appreciated on an international level.  He created some of the greatest Italian wines (Sassicaia, Tignanello, Alceo, Turriga, to name a few), but he also contributed to the rediscovery of ancient terroirs such as Marche, Sardinia and Sicily, and to establish Tuscany among the greatest world wine terroirs.  Tachis wrote fundamental pages of winemaking and modern viticulture in the tale of Italian wine.  In this context, his personality and his life have been relevant for decades, in particular for those who worked with him and followed his suggestions; many of whom (producers and estate owners themselves) were attending this event.

Tachis’ daughter, Ilaria, narrated her father’s life, his achievements and his personality.  Particularly interesting was the insight regarding Mr. Tachis’ passion for sciences, his temperament and his winemaking canons.

On the last day of Vinitaly, selected guests had the opportunity to taste several masterpieces created by Tachis; produced by some of the leading Italian wine firms.  Let us assess them.

• Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 2012 (Tuscany): I have tasted this wine on several occasions and it is consistently excellent.  The colour is intensely red with violet hues.  It has a fine, subtle nose of small berries, coffee and dark chocolate: very delicate.  In mouth, instead, is very vigorous and structured, still quite in its youth and exuberance.  Some green tannins, though not drying, some cutting edges on the finish.  Lovely restraint and elegance.  For the long haul: it will evolve elegantly with bottle age.  It should be re-tasted in the future. Extremely good.
• Feudi del Pisciotto Pinot Nero L’Eterno 2012 (Sicily): this wine was not made by Giacomo Tachis himself, but by following his advice and inspiration.  This is Pinot Noir made on the slopes of Etna volcano in Sicily.  Lively red colour, Volcanic traits both in terms of aromas and palate.  Cherries and red berries and light liquorice.  In mouth it’s unbelievable: broad, full of intensity, yet very drinkable and persistent.  It also displays flavours of red oranges (typically grown on Etna)!  Wow! Truly Sicilian in character and truly excellent!
• Santadi Carignano del Sulcis Riserva Terre Brune 2012 (Sardinia): dark violet-red in colour.  Violets, cherries, Sardinian bushes and olives.  Big mouth full of fruit, but lacking perfectly matching class.  Some consistent tannins and substance.  Very pleasant and with some long and enjoyable aftertaste (with liquorice) and persistence.  Very enticing and extremely good.
• Antinori Tignanello 2011 (Tuscany): restrained nose, a bit closed.  Small berries and dark chocolate.  However, flavours have been hampered by an odd tone of mushrooms (perhaps a faulty bottle escaping from professional sommeliers screening and serving the wine).  What a pity…  Allegra Antinori (daughter of Marchese Piero Antinori), presented this wine and explained that this was its 40^th vintage (Tignanello was not produced on continuous basis).  On the palate this wine is better, being refined and elegant.  Persistent, with a lovely finish.  Fine tannins and some alcohol.  The 2011 vintage was overall excellent in Italy.  One would expect 2011 Tignanello to fare better than assessed in this circumstance (especially in terms of aromas).  It needs to be tasted again to evaluate its progression, its intrinsic quality and to conclude that this event was tainted by a faulty bottle unprofessionally served to expert tasters.
• Agricola Punica Barrua 2010 (Sardinia): This wine company is rather young. In fact, it was born in the first years of this century as a joint venture in Sardinia between Santadi and Marchesi Incisa della Rocchetta, proprietors of Tenuta San Guido (both already mentioned above).  Lovely nose of berries, Mediterranean scrubs, coffee, dark chocolate, hints of tobacco leaves.  On the palate it is perfectly balanced and intense.  However, there is some noticeable acidity and alcohol.  Good tannic frame. Long, persistent.  Slightly burning on tongue sides. Very good.
• Castello dei Rampolla Alceo 1999 (Tuscany): This wine estate is located in Panzano, the heart of Chianti Classico. Here vineyards have been farmed biodynamically for over 22 years.  This wine, however, is produced mostly from the ubiquitous Cabernet Sauvignon grape, with a bit of Petit Verdot.  “Alceo” was the proprietor’s name who Giacomo Tachis honoured giving it to the single vineyard from which this wine is made.  Dark red colour. Intense nose, dark berries, blackcurrants, dark chocolate and coffee.  Excellent mouth, Precise and very rich, superb precision and refinement.  Remarkable balance between tannins and intensity.  Appropriate length and persistence.  Pure excellence!
• Guerrieri Gonzaga San Leonardo 1999 (Trentino): Located in southern Trentino, this estate has an established reputation for excellence.  Introducing his wine, Carlo Guerrieri Gonzaga told the audience that when Tachis retired, ending his collaboration with his company, he suggested Carlo Ferrini as his successor and this very capable oenologist has indeed taken charge of winemaking.  Nice dark red shade.  The nose is rich, dominated by spices, with noticeable blackcurrants, dark chocolate and coffee.  Palate is very intense and broad.  Excellent structure.  Fine, powerful and very elegant, persistent and lively.  First-rate.
• Donnafugata Mille e una Notte 1999 (Sicily): Antonio Rallo, owner, guided our tasting.  Dark red pigment and dark red ripe cherries nose.  Fruity, rich and spicy, with hints of chocolate.  Round, supple, enticing, long, delicate and feminine.  Very drinkable and very long, moderate tannic frame.  Excellent finish.  Excellent wine.
• Falchini Campora 1998 (Tuscany): the oenologist now working at this estate is Elisabetta Barbieri, a young talent and a pupil of Giacomo Tachis.  Cabernet Sauvignon of intense red colour.  Restrained aromas of blackcurrants and dark chocolate.  Fruity.  On the palate it is lovely balanced.  Well-made and elegant.  A nice wine, however lacking structure and some length.
• Le Pupille Saffredi 1993 (Tuscany): A wine now well into its maturity.  It is quite interesting to notice that this wine was first vinified in 1985, from Cabernet Sauvignon cuttings grafted on old Sangiovese rootstocks (Merlot and Alicante are also part of the blending).  Very dark red liquid.  Noticeable typical Tuscan essence immediately pervading the nose.  Dark forest berries, dark chocolate and ripe plums.  Intense, full, structured and long.  Very complex and long lasting.  Still very lively and fresh.  Precise tannins, refined and very drinkable.  Excellent.
• Argiolas Turrriga 1995 (Sardinia): A blend of four autochthonous Sardinian red grapes in which Cannonau is dominant.  Black.  Rich, elegant nose, displaying notes of juniper, wood, Sardinian bushes and olive tree’s freshly cut wood.  Chocolatey. On palate is refined, long, persistent and coherently distinguished by the sweetness of fruit and chocolate on the one hand, and by the vigour of coffee on the other.  Lovely balance and character.  Elegant, persistent and with a never-ending finish.  Absolute excellence!
• Umani Ronchi Pélago 1995 (Marche): A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Montepulciano (40%), Merlot (10%).  Once again the colour is dark red.  The nose is complex and polished revealing yellow and red peppers combined with mature fruit, plums in particular.  Clear-cut body and structure.  Very pleasant palate.  Perfect equilibrium, firm tannins and acidity.  Ripe and refreshing.  Very persistent and a fantastic finish with some final spicy notes.  Excellent.

Summing up our tasting, I would like to point out that there was extreme coherence in all the wines presented.  This does not mean that all the above wines taste the same.  Far from it!  All the wines have finely chiselled individual traits.  It means that the imprinting of Giacomo Tachis is palpable and evident, no matter from where these wines are from, from which grapes they were made, from which vintage they date and from which proprietor the respective estates are owned.  Quite remarkable!  Some of the most relevant features always emerging from our tasting are: the talent to re-discover and appreciate specific terroirs (not only Tuscany, but also Sardinia, Sicily, Trentino and so on.  In practice the whole Italian Peninsula), the ability to produce consistently excellent wines, the fine use of native and international grapes (or both simultaneously), the production of wines that are all intensely coloured, refined, balanced, and exceptionally pleasant to drink (the wish of any fine wine lover).